Report from the world’s coolest destination: Iceland

Report from the world’s coolest destination: Iceland,With a sense of awe and a bucket list budget, you can find hidden gems in the land of fire and ice

Report from the world’s coolest destination: Iceland

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I’m standing in front of the ocean at Reynisfjara: the iconic black sand beach on the South Coast of Iceland that has been used by Marvel and HBO for superhero movies and fantasy epics. It’s easy to understand why. Like many locations in the Nordic country, it feels like it exists on the tip of imagination, similar to that moment you realize you’re dreaming right before you wake up.

I close my eyes and listen to the sound of the waves crashing against the shore, a quiet moment both connected to nature and in awe of its magnitude. Coming back to reality, I clock a couple setting up a tripod and ring light. The duo strip down to skin-tight fitness gear, flex for their phone and begin doing burpees. They’ve ventured to Iceland’s most scenic beach at the cusp of winter to film a YouTube fitness tutorial.

Over the past decade, airline carrier Icelandair’s famed layover program has reinvented tourism in the country. Visitors from North America and Europe were encouraged to book a short stay in Iceland on their way to or from other locations, taking in the country’s natural beauty and famed spas. Across social media, folks shared the #MyStopover hashtag with accompanying pictures of volcanic hot springs or epic icebergs. They posted stories listening to Bjork and braving the famed fermented shark.

Gradually, Iceland began to shift its perception from a holiday add-on to a bonafide bucket list destination, perfect for scenic Instagram photos while still maintaining its aloof sense of cool. The tourist industry now accounts for 15 per cent of the country’s work force. Between 2010 and 2017, tourism grew roughly 400 per cent. That influx of people means that almost year-round Iceland’s glaciers, waterfalls and – yes – beaches are crawling with visitors all hoping for a personal experience with the awe-inspiring landscape. It also means that locals have been offering a number of new hotels and attractions to court international spending.

Case in point: The Reykjavik EDITION, a five-star residence billed as the top luxury hotel in the capital for its elegant minimalist decor and world-class amenities. Notably, it is home to Reykjavik’s first speakeasy bar and TIDES restaurant, boasting a menu designed by Gunnar Karl Gíslason, Iceland’s first Michelin-star chef. More recently, it has prided itself as Reykjavik’s premier spot to view the northern lights. On clear winter evenings, the hotel’s top-floor bar, THE ROOF, offers an unparalleled view of the natural wonder among scenic mountain ranges and the ships of the old harbour.

My perception of Iceland was firmly rooted in twee notions of its culture, and whispers from friends about the beauty of its stark landscape. The designers of the hotel play on those expectations while pushing them forward. At the restaurant and bar, menus are overwhelmed with unique takes on traditional Icelandic food: A delicious rye bread ice cream offered a sweet and toasted flavour; succulent scallops with redcurrant and a hint of coffee were both surprising and tasty. At the hotel entrance, a lava rock totem serves as a centrepiece to the decor for the lobby. Even the soaps are made specifically for the EDITION, with an exclusive scent invoking the outdoor air of the region: The Le Labo toiletries offered an earthy and fresh scent, like a mountain after a rainstorm.

It’s a world-class experience, but the self-referential tone of the hotel hints at a larger feeling I had throughout the trip: Visitors are buying into a prepackaged version of the country’s tone sold back at a premium. That sentiment was present at nearly all the major tourist stops throughout my stay. The picturesque hot springs of The Blue Lagoon are an absolute must for any traveller to Iceland, but if you’d like an encounter away from the crowds you’ll need a pass for The Retreat Spa and Hotel – complete with a private section of the turquoise waters, personalized changing areas and the location’s best views.

Guided tours of Iceland sell themselves on knowing unique destinations away from all of their peers. Looking through reviews for Reykjavik bars, authors champion the patronage of locals as much as they talk about the drinks. A tourist looking to get away from other tourists has become a cliché for a reason: There is cache to feeling like you’ve discovered something all on your own, like you’re in on a secret that somehow makes the holiday more special than the millions of other people who visit each year.

Still, during the whirlwind visit amongst the luxury hotels and once-in-a-lifetime views, I did find myself looking for opportunities for something away from the hordes. Something I could share with readers or friends that I could afford outside the lucky break of a press trip. Luckily, it’s still there if you’re willing to dig a bit.

On a side street of the capital is Fischersund, a family-run perfumery located in Reykjavik’s third oldest building. Entering the shop, I was greeted by a clerk who made warm chit-chat before explaining that each of the store’s scents was handmade with Icelandic oils and curated by the family to evoke a shared memory. Would I perhaps want a tour? For the next 20 minutes, she had me close my eyes and spray a bottle of perfume. While I took in the smell, the clerk read a poem encouraging me to notice the subtle changes and notes in profile, and how they related to the words being spoken. It was a simple moment that transported me to somewhere I had never been before.

When we finished I was dumbfounded. I tried to express how special it had felt. The clerk smiled. It’s something she heard a lot. Every week someone would come into the store, go through the tour, and get a similar special feeling. They’d go on to explain how they could take the brand to new levels, how everyone should know about what’s happening in the shop. But for the owners and employees, it was about any next level. It was creating a moment for here and now.

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